The course provides fundamentals of water waves mechanics, coastal hydro- and morpho- dynamics and coastal management, introducing design principles of coastal protection structures.

PROGRAM

- Description and observation of ocean waves
- Short-term wave analysis, statistical properties in time and frequency domain

- Principles of wave generation by wind
- Statistical analysis of extreme waves 
- Small amplitude wave theory
- Wave propagation and transformation from deep to shallow waters, wave-structure interaction
- Fundamentals of coastal management
- Coastal circulation
- Sediment transport processes & beach evolution
- Coastal erosion and erosion control